Caring for your Live Veiled Chameleon Egg(s) and Hatchling(s)
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Baby Veiled Chameleon starting to hatch
This is a photo of my female Veiled Chameleon. This is the mother of all my babies for sale.
My goal is to ensure a joyful and successful experience for both you and your pet Chameleon. I am available as a resource via email, chat (bottom right corner of this page), voice or text (914-874-9777) to answer questions and provide advice as you prepare for and care for your chameleon egg and Veiled Chameleon once it hatches.
Veiled Chameleon eggs typically take from 7-12 months to hatch.
1) Incubating your egg(s)
My eggs are shipped within the first 3 months of being laid for greatest success with shipping. I ship the egg(s) safely tucked away in the middle of a container filled to the top with moist substrate made for incubating eggs. Upon arrival, open container and carefully remove enough of the white substrate so that the egg(s) are half way exposed. Do not remove the egg(s). You will see a little pen-mark on the top of the egg(s). This is the position the egg(s) have been incubating in... it is important that this pen mark continues to face up during the rest of its incubation. If the egg(s) have adjusted slightly during shipping, gently rotate egg(s) so that the pen mark is again facing up. (See above photo of single egg in container.) Then close the container and place in a dark closet which has stable temps ranging between 70 - 78 degrees Fahrenheit. The next day, check to make sure a small amount of condensation has appeared on the inside walls of the container. The goal is to keep a slightly humid environment in the egg container... not to wet the egg(s). If the container seems too dry, you can add a few drops of water to the substrate. Don't drip the water directly onto the egg(s).
Thereafter, once every two weeks, open the container for a minute to allow for air exchange. If there is still a small amount of condensation on the inside of the container, it isn't necessary to add any more water. Don't over-saturate the substrate. If necessary, add a few drops of water to the substrate to get the desired slight humidity. Don't drip the water directly onto the egg(s). *** From 6 months onward, check the container every morning and evening to see if the baby has hatched. Although eggs need minimal air exchange, a hatched baby will only live for a day or two in the container before it suffocates from lack of air or water.
If you have any questions or see any changes to the egg that you aren't sure about...please contact me immediately to assess the situation!
2) Caring for your hatchling(s)
As I mentioned above, Veiled Chameleon egg(s) typically take from 7-12 months to hatch. From 6 months onward, check the container every morning and evening to see if the baby has hatched. Although egg(s) need minimal air exchange, a hatched baby will only live for a day or two in the container before it suffocates from lack of air or water.
When a baby chameleon hatches, it will sometimes pop its head out of the egg and remain there for a day or two before venturing out.. other times, the baby will come out right away. No matter how tempting it may be, do not touch or remove the chameleon from the container until your baby chameleon is completely out of the egg and walking around and exploring the enclosure.
Once the hatchling is walking around in the egg container, carefully remove and place your hatchling into a Zoo Med Reptibreeze Small Screen cage. Click here if you would like to purchase this cage from Amazon. This size cage will be suitable for the first four months after hatching depending upon how fast your chameleon grows.
Thereafter, you will need to buy a larger cage. Although I know it is tempting to buy a larger cage right from the beginning, I strongly recommend against it. Your hatchling will be overwhelmed and have a hard time finding enough food, water and heat in such a large cage and could become injured when falling from a significant height. Until they become more sure footed, hatchling babies will definitely fall occasionally. In a small sized cage, it is completely fine... they shake it off and move on.
With some of the exceptions I mentioned below... caring for a hatchling and baby Veiled Chameleon is the same as caring for an adult Veiled Chameleon. As such, after reading my instructions below, please go to my care and information page and carefully read my Veiled Chameleon care instructions. Thereafter, please go to my cage and supplies page where you will find links to purchase the necessary recommended supplies.
The set up of your hatchling's Zoo Med Reptibreeze Small Screen cage will be the same as setting up your larger screen cage for your Veiled Chameleon when it gets older... (just use smaller climbing branches for the hatchling). Also, depending on how warm the room is where the cage will be, you may be able to use only a 45 watt bulb versus the 60 or 75 watt bulb you would use for an adult. The basking temp for a hatchling/baby Veiled Chameleon should be approximately 85 degrees Fahrenheit (buy a point-and-click thermometer to check the basking temperature). You will need the same UVB light, dripper, sprayer, etc. that you will need for your adult Veiled Chameleon. So, after reading my care and information page, please go to my cage and supplies page where you will find links to purchase the necessary recommended supplies. Your cage must be completely setup before your chameleon hatches. Please don't wait until your chameleon has already hatched to start ordering your cage, UVB lighting and other supplies. Some necessary supplies can only be found on-line which will take several days to arrive to you. Don't assume you will find everything you need at your local pet store.
Feeding your Hatchling
Once the baby chameleon hatches, it lives off its yolk sac for two days. Immediately buy at least two containers of fruit flies from your local pet store. Plan ahead and make sure you know where you can quickly obtain fruit flies before your chameleon has already hatched. You will have only two days from hatching before your chameleon will need to start eating them. Your hatchling will eat only fruit flies or pin-heads (newly hatched baby crickets) during its first two weeks. Feed your hatchling every day. After two weeks depending on how fast it is growing, you can introduce slightly larger (yet still small) crickets. However, be very careful about the size of the food items you feed during the first month because there is a significant risk that a hatchling/baby can choke (and die) on a food item that is too big. If not certain... watch your baby eat while putting only one cricket in the cage at a time to make sure it can handle the size of the food item. After the first month, the risk of choking reduces dramatically. Regardless, the rule of thumb is to feed nothing larger than the gap between its eyes.
It is important to feed "dusted" fruit flies and pinhead crickets to your hatchling several times per week. I alternate between dusting with Reptivite and dusting with Calcium w/D3. Dusting simply means you pour some Reptivite or Calcium powder into a plastic bag or container, add some fruit flies or pinheads... and shake. The powder will coat the fruit flies and pinheads which should immediately be fed to your chameleon before the dust falls off them.
Pinheads and larger crickets should always be gut loaded before feeding them to your chameleon. Gut loading is the process in which crickets are fed nutritious foods with the intention of passing those nutrients to the chameleon. I gut load with Fluker's High-Calcium Cricket Diet which is a powder I just sprinkle on the bottom of the crickets' storage container. In addition, I supply fruits and vegetables for gut loading which serves to provide both nutrition and hydration for the crickets. I think of a cricket like it is an empty shell... it is only as nutritious for your Chameleon as the food you put in it.
3. In summary
By now it must be evident to you that the cost to obtain the screen cage, UVB lighting, heat lamp as well as the other necessary items to provide a proper environment for your chameleon will cost you $200+. If taken care of properly your Veiled Chameleon will live 5-8 years and provide you with endless joy over the years... please read my customer reviews. However, please only purchase the egg(s) if you are willing to commit the necessary financial and time resources required to providing your chameleon a good home.
I will remain available to answer your questions as they arise about how to properly prepare for and raise your chameleon. My goal is to make sure you and your baby chameleon have a great experience!
***Please be aware that once Veiled Chameleons reach six months old, it is recommended that they be housed in separate cages because 1) they become territorial and 2) males once sexually mature (about six months of age), will impregnate your female. However, you may be able to continue to house two adult females together... assuming you have an extra large cage... but that will depend upon the compatibility of their personalities. If one becomes dominant, then you will need to separate them as well.
Live Arrival Guarantee
1) If the egg(s) does not survive shipping, I will replace the egg(s) (including shipping/postage) at no charge. This guarantee will last for 30 days following the receipt of your egg(s) because if the egg(s) were damaged (internally) during shipping, the egg(s) will shrivel and mold up within a week or two. I will request a photo of the egg(s) at that time. If the egg(s), still look the same (or has gotten bigger) 30 days after shipping... the egg(s) are doing fine.
2) If the egg(s) survived shipping but never hatches, I will replace the egg(s) at no additional charge for the egg(s) - you will need to pay for shipping of the replacement egg(s). If the egg(s) do not hatch or have gone bad, the egg(s) will shrivel up and mold up. I will request a photo of the egg(s) at that time. Remember, although most Veiled Chameleon eggs typically hatch between 7-10 months, there are eggs that could hatch after only 6 months or which could take as long as 12 months. If the egg(s) look fine... be patient. It will most likely hatch. :)
3) My guarantee is valid assuming reasonable compliance* with my directions on how to care for the egg(s) upon arrival and during incubation.
*Reasonable compliance includes that you either 1) choose to ship to a local FedEx Shipping Center (HUB) for pickup or 2) take your package inside immediately upon arrival at your residence. Even with the included heat pack, a fertile egg won't remain viable for long if left outside exposed to cold winter temperatures. Failure to bring your package inside immediately upon arrival to your residence will void my live arrival guarantee.
Please feel free to reach out to me via via email, chat (bottom right corner of this page), voice or text (914-874-9777) if you have any questions.
Meet The Parents
My Adult Male
My Adult Female
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